Bubble-Hem Trench Coat Tutorial

POSTED BY Morgan Hungerford, 03 January 2008

It's hard to believe that the fashion mags and blogs are already Spring-minded (doesn't it feel like winter JUST began?), but they ARE and I'm excited - it takes a pitifully short amount of time for me to get tired of heavy layering and bulky coats. What I AM looking forward to are light, pretty Spring layers, and what better way to use time spent indoors (while hiding from inclement weather and nursing winter colds) THIS season than revamping an old, lined trench coat into a piece you'll wear nonstop NEXT season - a BUBBLE-HEM TRENCH COAT!

I've always had great luck finding trench coats at thrift stores (and for way cheap), so if you don't happen to have one hanging around in the back of your closet you can remedy that fairly easily - just make sure that it has an inner lining. It doesn't need to be a heavy lining; there will typically be a polyester lining inside the body of the coat, and that's all you need. Besides the coat itself, this project requires a sewing machine (or needle, thread, and patience), scissors, straight pins, a marker, and measuring tape or a ruler.

1. Start by determing the PERFECT LENGTH for your new trench coat. To create the bubble hem you're going to have to lose at least 2 inches from the bottom, so if you're smitten with the original length I apologize, but I promise it'll be worth it. If you ARE sticking with the original length you can skip the rest of this step, but if, like me, your coat is a bit longer than you'd like then you'll have to do a bit of measuring...

Mark your desired, final length on the inside lining of the coat with your marker, then lay the coat flat. Using your marker and measuring tape, measure and mark 2 inches below your desired length all the way across the inside of the coat, then cut along the line.

2. Using your marker and measuring tape, measure and mark the inner layer of the coat (this includes the lining and any folded-over fabric from the outside of the coat that attaches to the lining) 2 inches above the cut you made in step 1, then cut and remove ONLY that inner layer.

3. Using your scissors, make a 1/2 inch vertical cut at each end of the inner layer. Starting one of your cuts, fold the inner layer UNDER and pin all the way across (like you're creating a hem). Sew it!

4. Now modify step 3 for the raw edge of the outer layer - snip the ends, fold it up, pin it and sew it.

5. Prep for the bubble action by folding the bottom of the trench up to where the bottom "hem" and top "hem" are touching, then pin at either end.

5. To create the bubble effect on the bottom of the coat you'll need to PLEAT and PIN the outer layer to the inner layer (think about pressing the top inner "hem" to the bottom outer "hem" together like you're making a sandwich, with the raw edges INSIDE, then pleat and fold the bottom outer "hem"). It's super-easy, but it might take a try or two to get your pleats spaced correctly so that the outer layer fits evenly into the inner layer. This might require making a pleat or two in the inner "hem" as well to shorten it up - it all depends on the trench coat you're using! It's by no means an exact science, so have fun with it and try it a couple of different ways before you decide you're done pinning. And when you ARE done pinning, sew it up!

6. Lastly, you'll just need to sew the bottom sides of the trench closed. Easy!

If you really must, you can definitely layer this up and wear it NOW, but it'll be just right for topping girly Spring dresses (and lending a sweet, feminine touch to jeans and sneakers). And now that you know how easy it is to get the bubble effect, you can even go back and alter the sleeves to match the bottom - you know, in case you get snowed in and need projects to avoid that inevitable cabin fever...speaking of which, what ELSE could you apply the bubble hem to? Throw your ideas in the ring!