Tracing A Pattern
Last week I blogged a bit about tracking down international pattern magazines. So my question today is, "have you been bitten by the pattern magazine bug yet?" If so, you probably have your first issue in your hands, are looking at the pattern inserts (which looks roughly like a roadmap), and are now wondering "what do I do now?" Here's some tips to get you started sewing up your first pattern:
Like any pattern, you first need to determine what size you'll need. Carefully measure yourself and compare this to the size chart included in the pattern instructions section of the magazine. Like patterns that come in envelopes, magazine companies use differnt measurements for their sizes, so it's important to check each time you try out a new magazine brand. For example, I'll trace off a 36 in Burda and Ottobre Woman while I'll need a 40 in Patrones.
Once you determine your size, you'll want to check your instructions to find where your pattern pieces are located. All magazines come with multiple sheets of multi-sized patterns. After you find the page your pattern is on, you'll notice that each piece will be color coded to your specific garment, labeled according to pattern number, and the sizes indicated so you'll be able to identify which lines to trace.
Now you're ready to copy your pattern! The first thing you'll want to decide on is what sort of 'paper' you'll want to use when tracing your pattern pieces. There are a number of commercial products available such as Swedish Tracing Paper (available for purchase online) and Pattern Ease (which can be found in most brick and mortar stores as well as online). However, other transparent paper products such as rolls of paper from a medical supply store (used on exam tables) work just as well.
Next you'll want pick your prefered tracing tool. Pens, pencils, markers, or a tracing wheel and carbon paper will all work well. Keep in mind all pattern magazines (unless otherwise specified) do not have seam or hem allowances - so after tracing your initial size, you'll need to add these measurements. One way to eliminate this extra step is to purchase a tool such as Clotilde's Seam Tracer or make your own version (mine is two pens separated by popsicle sticks). Additionally, I find that using a clear quilting ruler and pen helps add hems to key pattern pieces.
Lastly, carefully trace off all your pieces. Be sure to secure your pattern and tracing material to a table to keep everything from shifting while you're copying each piece. And don't forget to mark important details such as darts, notches, zipper placement, pleats, dots, grainline, pattern number, etc. this will keep you from having to refer back to the pattern roadmap!
sewing, patterns, magazines, international, tracing
